Ingredients | Active ingredients

Active ingredients

The active ingredients, in a pharmaceutical drug, are the ingredients that are biologically active. ‘Active’ means that the ingredient or substance has ‘a known effect on the body’. This term is also used for the ingredients in medicated products (not a medicine) that actually make a product ‘work’. A similar term, active pharmaceutical ingredients (API), is used in medicine. The term active substance may be used for natural products and/or cosmetic products. Some (medicated) products may contain more than one active ingredient.

Some of the active substances we use are:

The active substances in our spray-on creams

Zinc oxide

Zinc oxide is an inorganic compound with the formula ZnO. Zinc oxide is a white powder that is insoluble in water; it doesn’t absorb water nor dissolves in water. Zinc oxide is widely used as an additive in innumerous materials and products. Zinc oxide is widely used to treat a variety of skin conditions; in products to treat diaper rashes, calamine cream, anti-dandruff shampoos, and antiseptic ointments.

Zinc oxide has a protective and weak astringent effect on the skin and is used to prevent moisture separation. When skin is damaged, even when the skin damage isn’t visible damage, the effect of the Zinc oxide may be palpable. This is due to its astringent effect, which at the same time helps the skin heal faster. Please note that it’s not the product that causes this effect. With a broken skin this effect can be felt. Applied to undamaged skin, this feeling will not occur.

Depending on the way it is manufactured, zinc oxide may have a stronger drying or cooling effect on the skin. The moisture/water that evaporates from the skin after application causes the cooling effect. Zinc oxide can be used to dry moist/wet skin, but also to protect healthy skin against irritant/corrosive substances.

In our formulations where Zinc oxide is added, the skin will quickly absorb The Base cream after application. This helps the Zinc oxide to dry rapidly and to create a protective layer on top of the skin. We do not use nanoparticles and therefore the skin will never absorb the zinc oxide! Our Zinc oxide formulations are created to treat diaper rash for babies & adults and to protect the skin from damage in certain sports activities.

Is (using) more Zinc Oxide better than (using) less Zinc Oxide?

The precise concentration of Zinc oxide for protecting the skin, for example in case of diaper rash, is commonly based on historical use and therefor differs per territory. It is difficult to say what percentage is more effective. Must it be 8%, 10%, 12%, 15% or even higher?

There is a trend going on that products with a higher Zinc Oxide concentration become more popular. A higher percentage of Zinc oxide gives more particles per cm2. But when the Zinc oxide particles aren’t able to dry (in a diaper) or aren’t able to create a protective layer, the use of a higher Zinc oxide percentage doesn’t make the product more effective at all. It’s important to monitor/define how the Zinc oxide is applied and in what kind of carrier it is processed; an ointment, a cream or an oil. When the concentration Zinc oxide in a cream cannot dry, or is not able to create a protective layer because the carrier stays to fatty, a high percentage doesn’t make sense.

There are products on the market that contain substances, which seal or suffocate the skin, or that keep skin ‘wet’. In such cases it is difficult for the Zinc oxide to dry and to form a protective layer. These substances also prevent the skin from absorbing all skin caring components. The skin stays moist/wet and a barrier is created between skin and (diaper) content. The barrier is therefore caused by the ointment or cream, and not by the much-needed Zinc oxide. The zinc will still have a certain astringent effect, but the Zinc cannot do its work properly. These kinds of products will not stimulate natural healing of the skin, but will most likely make the skin more vulnerable. It’s not only important to pay attention to the percentage/concentration of Zinc oxide in a cream, but even more important to pay attention to other ingredients of/in a cream.

Dexpanthenol

Panthenol (also called pantothenol) is the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). Dexpanthenol or D-panthenol is the bioactive enantiomer of panthenol. D-panthenol or dexpanthenol is biologically active. When Panthenol comes into contact with the skin, it is able to penetrate into the skin. In the cells it will be converted to pantothenic acid. Pantothenic acid is a substance essential for the normal functioning of the skin. It’s this transformation that is held responsible for the skin healing effect of panthenol. Due to this healing effect panthenol is often referred to as “pro-vitamin B5”.

Panthenol makes skin feel smoother and more elastic and it reduces the superficial signs of aging. It also helps against skin irritation such as dryness, roughness, itching, diaper rash etc., and contributes to the healing of light (sun)burns. The healing effect is attributed to the vitamin forming property of dexpanthenol; it penetrates the skin, where it is converted to pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), which in turn is a component of co-enzyme A; By thus facilitating the supply of energy to the cells, and accelerates the formation of new skin cells.

Panthenol is used as an ingredient in many cosmetic products i.e. hair care (shampoos, hair conditioners) and skin care (creams, ointments, lotions…). It has a moisturizing effect because it retains moisture and prevents dehydration. Panthenol is known as a very safe cosmetic ingredient.

We use Panthenol in our cosmetic Pump Spray-on creams to support healing of the skin. We also offer a Panthenol pump spray-on cream with 2% and 5% panthenol added. These cosmetic Pump Spray-on creams can be used to prevent and treat diaper rash.

Chamomile

True chamomile (Matricaria chamomile L.) is a member of the Asteraceae plant family. Hardly any other medicinal plant has been so highly favored, much used and greatly researched as chamomile. In folk and traditional medicine chamomile is used as tea compress and for inhalation purposes. Its extract is also commonly used to treat digestive tract difficulties, to treat wounds and to treat inflammatory changes in the mucous membrane.

In cosmetic applications chamomile is used in facial tonics, cleansing products, hair care, after sun care and baby care. Chamomile is known for its anti-inflammatory and antiseptic properties and is used to calm itchy skin, eczema, diaper dermatitis, allergic reactions etc.

Chamomile promotes the natural healing of the skin.

Calendula

Calendula belongs to the Compositae plant family. The plant is native to southern Europe, and is cultivated in temperate regions around the world.

Calendula is one of the most well-known and versatile herbs in the Western herbal medicine. The bright orange petals are an excellent remedy for inflamed and irritated skin. Their antiseptic and healing properties help to prevent spread of infection and speeds up the rate of repair. Calendula is also a cleansing and detoxifying herb. The infusion and tincture are used to treat chronic infections.

Calendula is above all a great skin remedy, providing effective treatment for most minor skin problems. It is used to treat cuts, grazes and wounds, to calm red and inflamed skin (including minor burns and sunburn) to treat acne and rashes and to treat fungal conditions such as ringworm, athlete’s foot and thrush. It’s very helpful to treat nappy rash and cradle cap. Calendula also soothes sore nipples due to breast-feeding.

Calendula is used for its soothing properties in cosmetic applications such as after sun, irritated and sensitive (facial)skin care, hair care.

White willow bark

The Latin name of White Willow (bark) is Salix Alba. This tree belongs to the Salicaceae plant family. “Salix” is derived from the Celtic “Sal lis”, which means “by/near water” and refers to the favorite place to grow of this tree. “Alba” (white), refers to the silvery white hairs on the young leaves.

The White willow tree is native too much of Europe but is also found in North Africa and Asia, thriving in damp areas, such as riverbanks. White Willow, a deciduous “falling off at maturity” tree, can grow to 25 m (80 ft.), with green tapering leaves and catkins in spring.

White willow is a natural astringent and was formerly used to staunch internal bleeding. Nicholas Culpeper (1652) advised that burnt ashes of the white willow bark be “mixed with vinegar to take away warts, corns and superfluous flesh”. White willow is an excellent remedy for arthritic and rheumatic pain affecting the back, and joints. In combination with other herbs and dietary changes, it relieves inflammation and swelling and improves mobility in painful or creaky joints.

In cosmetic applications, white willow bark is used for cleansing face tonics for young skin, anti-dandruff shampoos and soft peeling for foot care products to make callus removal easier. It also treats sweaty feet.

Centella Asiatica

Centella Asiatica (syn. Indian Pennywort, Indian Water Navel Wort) belongs to the Apiaceae plant family. Asian Pennywort, found in wide parts of South Africa, Ceylon, India, China and Pakistan, is making a comeback into modern science of preventing skin aging.

Centella asiatica is an old, traditional Chinese medicinal plant and is listed in the Chinese pharmacopoeia. Centella asiatica is used externally in Chinese popular medicine to treat eczema and skin lesions. Centella asiatica (often just called centella) is rich in amino acids, beta carotene, fatty acids, and numerous potent phytochemicals. These extracts are said to have a good antibacterial effect and also have a positive effect on the scar forming process. Extracts have been found to calm inflammation, speed wound healing, stimulate new cell growth, build collagen and improve circulation.

Centella asiatica is a source of amino acids and has soothing properties. Concentrations of 5% show notable improvement in skin’s moisture content.

Menthol

The menthol is derived from peppermint. Menthol can have the same sensitizing effect on the skin as peppermint has. Menthol is used in many products, mainly to provide a fresh and cooling sensation. Because of the predominant cooling effect on the skin, menthol can be seen as a light local anesthetic and ‘counter irritant’. The effect is a calm and relaxed feeling. An itchy skin for example, will be sensitized by the cooling effect of menthol. After a while and after the cooling effect, the skin will start to feel a little warm. These changes in temperature will act as a distraction and the need to scratch will be temporarily reduced. Scratch reduction minimizes the risk of scarring. Unfortunately, the cooling, refreshing sensation menthol causes is direct evidence that skin is being desensitized, not soothed.

Menthol is ideal to combine with other ingredients. Together with our Base cream and the addition of Zinc oxide, the result is a cooling, calming, soothing and highly protecting spray-on cream.

The amount of menthol used in a product is related to the weight of the human body. Do not use products with menthol on children under the age of 2 years. 

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